Pyung Chang Tofu House - Oakland

Pyung Chang Tofu House is a family-owned restaurant specializing in traditional Korean dishes. This is one of my favorite restaurants in the world. Located in a building that looks like it should be offering up Bavarian fare, and outfitted inside with huge tree-trunk tables and benches, you might be surprised to find savory traditional Korean food being served up, instead of bratwurst boiled in beer.

The mainstay of the menu is a spicy soft-tofu stew called "Soon" served sizzling-hot in traditional black clay bowls. There are eight varieties of this stew, differentiated by the meat options. I have tried both meat and veggie versions, and have to say that I found the "vegetarian option (perhaps not really veggie, because it may have fish broth) to have the most savory-flavored broth. " Other items include huge bowls of pork back stew (!) served sizzling on a hot plate. There is white rice, or stone pot rice, which is a crispy almost burned rice that is quite tasty. The Korean customers are served a mysterious broth at the beginning of their meals. I have yet to discover what it is, or why I never get any, even when I beg for it. The staff look at me like I'm a poor ignorant fool (in this instance, very true), smile at me, and continue to ignore my pleas. The menu is meat-intensive, and not for the faint of heart.

Tiny plates of assorted Kimchees are ever-present, mostly vegetarian, and the portions are generous and filling. I wish I spoke Korean, so I could get more detailed information about ingredients. I'm ashamed to say that I don't have any Korean-speaking friends, otherwise I would drag them there and force them to get me details details details!

Rumor has it that the owner teaches golf lessons (herself a former pro golfer) out of her basement, but I have yet to see it for myself.

VEGETARIANS/VEGANS: BEWARE! The veggie items on the menu may not be vegetarian. If you're strict, this may not be the best place for you, unless you speak Korean and can ask all the right questions in the native tongue. The fried Mung Bean Cakes and the mostly vegetarian Kimchees are the only things I've seen that may be a safe bet. But I would feel better knowing for sure that there are no fish products in those items, before I order.

LOCATION/HOURS: 4701 Telegraph Ave., Oakland, CA 94609 (510)-658-9040. Call for hours. Cash and Credit Cards accepted.

Three stars granted, not so much for poor food quality, but frustrating inability to communicate. Service is slow.